Things to Do in Aix-en-Provence: Sights, Markets and Cézanne
Aix-en-Provence is the elegant, café-loving city of Provence: a compact old town of honey-colored mansions, plane-tree avenues, splashing fountains and some of the best markets in the south of France. It is also Paul Cézanne’s hometown, and the mountain he painted again and again, Montagne Sainte-Victoire, rises just east of the city.
Quick answer: the best things to do in Aix-en-Provence are strolling the Cours Mirabeau, browsing the morning markets, wandering the old town and its fountains, following the Cézanne trail (his studio and the Sainte-Victoire viewpoints), and visiting the Musée Granet and the Hôtel de Caumont art center. One full day covers the highlights; two or three days let you add a hike, a day trip and a slow café afternoon.
Why Visit Aix-en-Provence?
Founded by the Romans in 122 BC as Aquae Sextiae because of its warm springs, Aix later became the capital of Provence and a wealthy city of lawyers, magistrates and nobles. That history explains its look: more than a hundred 17th- and 18th-century private mansions (hôtels particuliers), grand squares and a university atmosphere that keeps the streets lively all year.
Compared with nearby Marseille, Aix is smaller, calmer and more polished. It works well as a base for exploring Provence: you can reach Marseille, Cassis, the Luberon villages and the Camargue as day trips. If you are still deciding where to go in the region, our guides to the top things to do in Provence and what Provence is known for give the bigger picture.
| Time you have | What to focus on |
|---|---|
| Half a day | Cours Mirabeau, old town, a market, one fountain walk |
| 1 day | Add the Musée Granet or Hôtel de Caumont and Cézanne’s studio |
| 2–3 days | Add a Sainte-Victoire hike or viewpoint and a day trip (Cassis, Luberon, Marseille) |
Cours Mirabeau and the Old Town
Cours Mirabeau
The Cours Mirabeau is Aix’s showpiece avenue, laid out in the 17th century and lined with huge plane trees. One side is a row of café terraces, the other a line of stately mansions with carved doorways and wrought-iron balconies. It is the place to sit with a coffee and watch the city go by. At the western end stands the Fontaine de la Rotonde, the city’s grandest fountain, on a busy roundabout that marks the edge of the old town.
Vieil Aix
North of the Cours lies Vieil Aix, a maze of narrow streets and small squares. Highlights include:
- Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, with the town hall, a clock tower with an astronomical clock, and a lively flower market.
- Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, which mixes architectural styles from the 5th to the 18th century and has an early baptistery and a peaceful Romanesque cloister.
- Place d’Albertas, a small, theatrical 18th-century square with a cobbled fountain, often used for summer concerts.
- Place des Cardeurs and the Forum des Cardeurs, the main cluster of restaurant terraces in the old town.
- Rue d’Italie and Rue Espariat, good streets for bakeries, delis and Provençal food shops.
Quartier Mazarin
South of the Cours Mirabeau, the Mazarin quarter was planned in the 17th century on a grid, which makes it quieter and more stately than the old town. Look for the Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins, one of Aix’s most photographed fountains, and the Musée Granet at Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte.
Following Cézanne in Aix
Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) was born, worked and died in Aix, and the city has turned his life into a trail you can follow on foot. Bronze studs marked with a C in the pavement guide you past his birthplace, his school, the cafés he frequented and his family’s homes.
Atelier des Lauves (Cézanne’s Studio)
Cézanne built this studio on the Lauves hill north of the old town in 1902 and worked there until his death. It has been preserved with his easel, still-life objects and furniture, and it feels intimate rather than museum-like. Capacity is small and online booking is normally required. The studio is closing for restoration work from November 2026, so check the official Cézanne en Provence website for its reopening date before you plan around it.
Terrain des Peintres
A short walk uphill from the studio, the Terrain des Peintres is a small public garden facing Montagne Sainte-Victoire. It is the spot where Cézanne painted several of his late views of the mountain, and panels show the paintings next to the real landscape. It is free and a lovely place at sunset.
Jas de Bouffan and the Bibémus Quarries
Jas de Bouffan, the Cézanne family estate on the western side of town, has been undergoing a long restoration. It reopened for the 2026 season and closes again for further work from November 2026. The Bibémus quarries east of Aix, where Cézanne painted the ocher rocks that led toward Cubism, are usually visited on guided tours. Opening seasons for all three Cézanne sites change, so book through the official site.
Museums and Art
- Musée Granet: Aix’s fine-arts museum, with European painting from the Renaissance onward and a small but important group of works by Cézanne. Its modern-art annex in the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs (Granet XXe) shows the Planque collection, including Picasso, Klee and Giacometti.
- Hôtel de Caumont – Centre d’Art: an 18th-century mansion restored as an exhibition center, with high-quality temporary shows, period rooms, a short film about Cézanne and a pleasant garden café.
- Pavillon de Vendôme: a 17th-century pleasure pavilion in a formal garden, a short walk from the old town.
- Fondation Vasarely: a striking 1970s building west of the center designed by Victor Vasarely to show his large-scale op-art works.
The Fountains of Aix
Aix is nicknamed the city of a thousand fountains, and walking between them is a good way to see the town. Don’t miss the Fontaine de la Rotonde (1860), the moss-covered Fontaine Moussue on the Cours Mirabeau, which is fed by a warm spring, the Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins in the Mazarin quarter and the Fontaine d’Albertas. The warm springs that drew the Romans still supply the modern Thermes Sextius spa near the old town walls.
Markets of Aix
Markets are one of the main reasons to visit. Go in the morning; most stalls pack up around 1 pm.
| Market | Where | When |
|---|---|---|
| Food and produce market | Place Richelme | Every morning |
| Flower market | Place de l’Hôtel de Ville | Several mornings a week |
| Large general market (food, clothes, Provençal goods) | Place des Prêcheurs, Place de la Madeleine and around the Palais de Justice | Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings |
Market days can change for holidays and events, so check with the tourist office if you plan your visit around one. Look for olive oil, honey, lavender products, goat cheese, seasonal fruit and Provençal fabrics.
Calissons: The Taste of Aix
Aix’s signature sweet is the calisson, a diamond-shaped confection of ground almonds and candied fruit (traditionally melon) on a wafer base, topped with a thin layer of royal icing. You will find calisson makers throughout the old town; many sell boxes that travel well, making them a good edible souvenir.
Montagne Sainte-Victoire
The limestone ridge of Sainte-Victoire dominates the landscape east of Aix and is a popular hiking area. The classic walk climbs to the Croix de Provence, a large cross near the western summit with wide views over Provence; plan for a demanding half-day hike with a steep, rocky ascent. If you prefer to drive, the scenic roads around the mountain (via Le Tholonet, Puyloubier and Vauvenargues) offer the views Cézanne painted.
From June to September, access to the Provence massifs, including Sainte-Victoire, is regulated daily because of wildfire risk. Check the Bouches-du-Rhône prefecture’s daily map (published the evening before) before you set out, carry plenty of water and start early. See our guide to the best mountain hikes in France for more ideas.
Day Trips from Aix-en-Provence
- Marseille (about 30–45 minutes by bus or train): the Vieux-Port, Le Panier and the MuCEM. Our post Is Marseille worth visiting? helps you decide.
- Cassis and the Calanques (around 45 minutes by car): a fishing port, white wine and dramatic limestone inlets. See our guide on how to visit Cassis and the Calanques.
- The Luberon villages (about 1 hour by car): Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux and Lourmarin, best by car. See the most beautiful villages of the Luberon.
- Arles and the Camargue (about 1 hour by car): Roman monuments, Van Gogh sites and wild wetlands.
- Avignon (about 1 hour by car or a short TGV hop): the Palais des Papes and the famous bridge.
Where to Eat and Stay
Eating
Aix has a wide restaurant scene for its size, from bistro terraces to refined Provençal cooking. The old town squares (Place des Cardeurs, Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, Place Richelme) are best for atmosphere; the streets around the Mazarin quarter tend to be quieter. Lunch menus (formules) are usually much better value than dinner. Try local dishes such as daube provençale, tapenade, pistou soup and seasonal vegetables from the market, and book ahead for dinner in July during the opera festival.
Staying
- Old town (Vieil Aix): best for walking everywhere and evening atmosphere; rooms can be small and streets lively at night.
- Mazarin quarter: quieter and elegant, still a few minutes’ walk from everything.
- Around La Rotonde and the bus station: practical if you arrive by bus or plan day trips.
- Countryside bastides and guesthouses: ideal with a car, especially toward Sainte-Victoire.
Aix gets busy and pricier in summer, particularly during the Festival d’Aix-en-Provence (opera and classical music, in July). Spring and autumn are the sweet spots for weather and value.
Getting to Aix-en-Provence
- By TGV: high-speed trains from Paris reach Aix-en-Provence TGV station in around 3 hours. The station is about 15 km outside the city, so take the frequent shuttle bus to the central bus station (around 20 minutes). See our guide to the TGV.
- From Marseille: regular buses and regional TER trains link Marseille and Aix in roughly 30–45 minutes. The TER arrives at the small Aix-en-Provence centre station, a short walk from the old town.
- By air: Marseille Provence Airport is about 30 minutes away by shuttle bus.
- By car: the old town is largely pedestrian. Use the underground car parks on the edge of the center rather than trying to drive in.
If you are traveling from Paris and want to compare options, our guide on how to get from Paris to Marseille covers the same rail line.
Practical Tips
- Visit the markets early, before 10 am, for the best choice and fewer crowds.
- Book Cézanne’s studio and popular exhibitions ahead, especially in summer and on weekends.
- Many smaller shops close on Sunday and some on Monday morning; museums often close one day a week, so check before you go.
- July and August are hot; plan sightseeing for mornings and evenings and rest at midday like the locals.
- Wear comfortable shoes: the old town is paved with stone and best explored on foot.
Summary
Aix-en-Provence rewards slow travel: a coffee on the Cours Mirabeau, a morning at the market, a walk past fountains and mansions, and an afternoon with Cézanne at his studio and the painters’ viewpoint over Sainte-Victoire. Add the Musée Granet or the Hôtel de Caumont, a box of calissons and, if you have time, a hike or a day trip to Cassis or the Luberon, and you will have seen the best of this graceful Provençal city.
