10 Best Foods to Try in the South of France
The best foods to try in the South of France are bouillabaisse in Marseille, pan bagnat and pissaladière in Nice, tarte tropézienne in Saint-Tropez, brandade in Nîmes, cassoulet in the Languedoc and crème catalane near the Spanish border, plus Provençal classics like ratatouille, fougasse and pieds paquets. A slow-cooked daube provençale makes a delicious bonus.
Southern French cooking is built on sunshine ingredients: olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, herbs, anchovies and fish from the Mediterranean. It is quite different from the butter-rich cuisine of Paris and the north. For an overview of the whole country, see our guide to the most famous foods in France.
1. Bouillabaisse (Marseille)
Marseille’s legendary fish stew began as a humble fishermen’s meal, made with the bony rockfish that were hard to sell at market. Today it is a celebration dish. Several kinds of Mediterranean fish, such as rascasse (scorpionfish), are cooked in a broth with tomatoes, fennel, garlic, olive oil and saffron.
It is traditionally served in two parts: first the broth with toasted bread and rouille, a garlicky sauce of olive oil, saffron and chili, then the fish. Some restaurants add shellfish or lobster. A proper bouillabaisse is expensive and often needs to be ordered a day ahead; be wary of cheap versions on tourist menus. Learn more about the city in what Marseille is famous for.
2. Tarte Tropézienne (Saint-Tropez)
Despite the name, the tarte tropézienne is not a tart. It is a round brioche topped with pearl sugar, sliced in half and filled with a light cream flavored with orange blossom. Pastry chef Alexandre Micka created it in Saint-Tropez in the 1950s, and it is said that Brigitte Bardot, filming in the town at the time, suggested the name.
You can buy the original at La Tarte Tropézienne bakeries, but most pâtisseries along the coast make their own version. It is an indulgent holiday treat, best eaten fresh. More on the town in what Saint-Tropez is famous for.
3. Pieds Paquets (Marseille and Provence)
This one is for adventurous eaters. Pieds paquets means feet and packets: sheep’s feet and small parcels of tripe stuffed with salt pork, garlic and parsley, simmered for hours in a sauce of white wine, tomatoes and onions. The long cooking makes everything very tender. It is a traditional Marseille dish, now found mainly in old-fashioned Provençal restaurants.
4. Fougasse (Provence)
Fougasse is a Provençal flatbread, shaped like a leaf or ladder with slashes that give it lots of crispy crust and a soft, slightly chewy center. Bakeries sell it plain or flavored with olives, anchovies, lardons, cheese, onions or herbes de Provence. It is perfect for picnics and beach days. Around Menton and Nice, look out for sweet versions flavored with orange blossom.
5. Pan Bagnat (Nice)
Nice’s favorite sandwich takes its name from the Niçois for bathed bread. A round loaf is soaked with olive oil and filled with the ingredients of a salade niçoise: tomatoes, tuna or anchovies, hard-boiled egg, black olives, radishes, peppers and spring onions. Purists use raw vegetables only and no mayonnaise. It is the classic Riviera beach lunch. See our guide to what and where to eat in Nice for more local dishes.
6. Pissaladière (Nice)
Pissaladière is a thick, bread-dough tart covered with slowly cooked, sweet onions, anchovies and black olives. The name comes from pissala, a traditional Niçois anchovy paste. Bakeries in Nice sell it by the slice, making it an excellent snack while walking through the old town and the Cours Saleya market.
7. Brandade de Morue (Nîmes)
Brandade is a creamy purée of salt cod emulsified with olive oil, often with garlic and sometimes milk or potatoes. It is closely associated with Nîmes, and its name comes from the Provençal word for stirring, since it takes lots of patient stirring to make it silky. Eat it spread on toast, or baked until golden. More on the city in what Nîmes is famous for.
8. Cassoulet (Languedoc)
Cassoulet is a hearty casserole of white beans with pork, sausage and duck confit (some versions use mutton), slowly cooked in an earthenware dish called a cassole. It comes from the Languedoc, now part of the Occitanie region, and Castelnaudary, Carcassonne and Toulouse each claim their own version. It is rich winter food and, like many stews, tastes even better reheated the next day.
9. Crème Catalane (Roussillon)
In French Catalonia, around Perpignan, the local answer to crème brûlée is crème catalane. It is a custard made with milk rather than cream, thickened with egg yolks and a little starch, and flavored with lemon or orange zest and cinnamon. It is cooked on the stove, chilled, then topped with sugar that is caramelized just before serving, so you get a cold custard under a warm, crackling top.
10. Ratatouille (Provence)
If you have only had soggy ratatouille, try it in Provence. This summer vegetable stew of eggplant, zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, onions and garlic, cooked in olive oil with herbs, began as a simple peasant dish. Made well, with each vegetable cooked separately before being combined, it is full of flavor. Enjoy it hot or at room temperature with crusty bread, or alongside grilled meat or fish.
Bonus: Daube Provençale
Daube is a Provençal beef stew made with inexpensive cuts marinated and slowly braised in red wine with garlic, herbs, orange peel and vegetables. It is traditionally cooked in a daubière, a terracotta pot whose lid could be filled with water to keep the stew moist. In Nice and Provence, the leftover sauce is often served with pasta as a macaronade.
Where to Try Each Dish
| Dish | Where it comes from | Type |
|---|---|---|
| Bouillabaisse | Marseille | Fish stew |
| Tarte tropézienne | Saint-Tropez | Pastry |
| Pieds paquets | Marseille | Slow-cooked meat |
| Fougasse | Provence | Bread |
| Pan bagnat | Nice | Sandwich |
| Pissaladière | Nice | Onion tart |
| Brandade | Nîmes | Salt cod purée |
| Cassoulet | Castelnaudary, Carcassonne, Toulouse | Bean casserole |
| Crème catalane | Perpignan and Roussillon | Dessert |
| Ratatouille | Provence | Vegetable stew |
| Daube provençale | Provence and Nice | Beef stew |
Summary
Eating your way through the South of France means olive oil, garlic, herbs and the Mediterranean in every bite. Order bouillabaisse in Marseille, grab a pan bagnat or pissaladière in Nice, treat yourself to a tarte tropézienne in Saint-Tropez, try brandade in Nîmes, and save the hearty cassoulet and daube for cooler days. Visit the local markets too, where you will find many of these specialties ready to take away.
